What is cashmere? Why this controversial ' luxury' wool is falling out of fashion

The past few seasons have seen a new fashion trend emerge: quiet luxury.

Translated as understated and sombre chic, this trend showcased celebrities wearing muted colours and simple, sleek designs, often in costly natural fabrics such as cashmere.

The exclusivity behind this trend stemmed from the fact that without the expensive fabrics, quiet luxury was practically unattainable – further adding to the portrayal of cashmere as a desirable material.

But today, undercover investigations are showing that the reality behind the production of cashmere is anything but ‘quiet’.

Cashmere goat trade: The facts

One of the most frequently used materials in high-end fashion, the cashmere industry was worth $3.2 billion in 2022.

Cashmere’s warming properties is one of the reasons why the material is so highly sought after: as cashmere goats live in areas where temperatures can drop as low as -30°C, their long hair is both soft and very warm.

The idea of this warming, luxurious fibre coming from peacefully grazing goats on vast fields has fuelled an image of cashmere that has so far gone unquestioned.

But PETA Asia’s first investigation into the trade in China and Mongolia showed that behind the cosy exterior lies a darker backstory: workers were seen handling the animals roughly, stepping on them and using sharp metal tools to tear the hair out of their bodies.

When animals were inevitably hurt in the process, they received no veterinary care.

Goats, who are prey animals and terrified of being handled, suffered from immense pain and stress during this procedure. One farmer described the shearing procedures as being ‘very stressful’ for the goats.

Removing their fur this way also deprives the animals of their natural insulation, which makes them vulnerable to the elements and more prone to disease.

Overall, this investigation gave the industry food for thought when it came to the perceived image of luxury brands: turns out, fast fashion is not the industry’s only villain.

Luxury fashion brands and cashmere

This year, PETA released another eyewitness account of Mongolia’s cashmere industry, revealing that suppliers to well-known fashion brands such as Burberry, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada engaged in rough and violent handling of the animals.

And this investigation served as a stark reminder that there is no happy retirement for animals in the fashion industry: when the goats were considered no longer useful for cashmere production, workers hit them over the head with hammers and slit their throats.

PETA lay a lot of the blame with the luxury companies, many of whom tout ‘responsible’ and ‘sustainable’ standards.

“These companies are profiting from the suffering of goats, and customers have no idea of the cruelty involved,” said PETA’s Vice President for Europe, UK and Australia, Mimi Bekhechi.

Environmental impact of cashmere

Aside from the rampant animal abuse, there is also the environmental impact to take into consideration.

Approximately 90 per cent of all the cashmere in the world derives from China and Mongolia, where soil degradation and the risk of desertification are big problems.

The cashmere industry in these countries contributes to these issues: cashmere goats eat 10 per cent of their body weight every day, consuming the entire plant with the root.

This prevents regrowth, leading to the soil being at risk of desertification – and let’s not forget this is a part of the world that is already largely desertified.

Cruelty-free cashmere alternatives

So what is the solution? It seems that standards and certifications are not it – the latest investigation did, in fact, include operations that supplied companies certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, showing once again that ‘humane’ and ‘responsible’ certifications are little more than mere marketing tools.

Instead, PETA believes that the future lies in moving away from cashmere altogether. “PETA urges all fashion brands to stop hiding behind misleading labels and switch to luxurious, animal-friendly vegan cashmere,” said Mimi Bekhechi.

Plant-based fabrics are catching up to cashmere’s luxe reputation – but without the cruelty to animals and with a much smaller environmental impact.

Enter hemp, one of the most eco-friendly materials in the industry today. This miracle fibre grows without any need for chemical pesticides or fertilisers, and is perfect for organic farming.

Possibly the most frequently used vegan wool replacement in sustainable fashion is organic cotton, which has a smaller waste usage and also requires fewer pesticides and fertilisers than conventional cotton.

Tencel, made from wood-pulp cellulose, is made with a closed-loop process, meaning that resources such as water and chemicals are re-used to minimise waste.

Lesser-known, more innovative options include soybean cashmere, which can be biodegradable and mimic cashmere’s drape and warmth.

Another up-and-coming one is banana wool – kind to the environment and without an ounce of animal fibre. And of course, there are recycled materials such as polyester and acrylic – recycling alone won’t solve fashion’s problems, but it’s a step in the right direction, and a viable solution for vegans searching for a cashmere alternative.

The truth is that more innovation – and more availability of choice – is needed if fabrics like cashmere are to disappear.

Like we have seen happen with vegan leather, plant wools can carry a lot of promise when it comes to making animal-derived fabrics obsolete. Let’s hope that up-and-coming planet and animal-friendly inventions will save countless lives, while making us all look and feel a million dollars.