Why is cashmere so expensive?
Cashmere comes from the ultra-soft undercoats of select species of alpine goats. Its quality and cost mainly boil down to the length and fineness of the fibers, and the skill and precision required to collect it.
Much of the best cashmere for sweaters comes from Mongolia and Inner Mongolia, where cashmere goats survive in harsh, high-altitude landscapes. To endure frigid winter temperatures, they grow a double-coated fleece, with coarse wool on top and a dense cloud of extremely fine, soft hairs underneath.
The most expensive and desirable cashmere is meticulously hand-combed or carefully sheared in the spring, when the goats naturally shed their winter coats. Skilled producers are capable of retaining the longest, thinnest hairs from the goat’s undercoat, which can be more tightly woven into smoother, stronger yarn.
About 15,000 to 20,000 tons of cashmere are harvested every year, but after scouring and dehairing is complete, only 6,500 tons of pure cashmere actually makes it to market. Compare that with the massive 1 million tons of wool (PDF) that’s produced in the same period, and factor in a growing global appetite for luxury goods, and it becomes clear why cashmere is such a high-priced commodity. The best long-fiber cashmere is especially scarce, as heritage brands like Italy’s Loro Piana—where you can easily spend thousands of dollars on a single sweater—buy up the majority of premium-grade cashmere.
Nevertheless, cashmere has become considerably more accessible in the past decade, mostly because of China’s efforts to produce more of it. We did a special round of testing focusing on these less-expensive offerings, and we recommend a couple of 100% cashmere sweaters that cost under $100, including our pick from Naadam and a $50 sweater from Quince.
In order to keep costs down, the makers of most inexpensive cashmere sweaters use yarn spun from coarser, shorter, and broken fibers, which means they probably won’t last as long. But even some higher-priced fashion brands have been known to use this low-quality cashmere, so you can’t always rely on price alone as an indicator of quality.
Other good cashmere sweaters
If you want ultra-soft cashmere at an unbeatable price: The airy and whisper-soft Quince Mongolian Cashmere Crewneck Sweater (women’s, $50; men’s, $60), made from Grade A, two-ply cashmere, delivers shockingly good quality for the price. When we tested it against three other under-$100 cashmere sweaters, it emerged as our second favorite, bested only by our cashmere pick from Naadam. We loved the Quince sweater’s flattering shape—with snug ribbing at the bottom hem—as well as its cloud-like feel. We also appreciated its reinforced construction, as it has fully fashioned marks at the shoulder. But it makes some compromises: It pilled easily, was somewhat prone to stretching, and didn’t feel nearly as warm or substantial as the Naadam sweater. The Quince crewneck is available in women’s sizes XS to XL and in men’s sizes S to XXL, in a wide selection of colors. Not long before we published this guide, a Quince representative told us that the company should be receiving stock in women’s plus sizes shortly.
The competition
This is not an exhaustive list of everything that we tested, just what’s still available.
Women’s
The Cashmere Crew Neck Sweater has a cool slouchy cut, and its thick-ribbed collar is nicely structured. But the fabric felt mushy and flimsy—particularly disappointing considering that this sweater costs nearly $300.
The $99 Cashmere Hat and Sweater Set—you get a matching beanie along with a crewneck—is made from impressively soft, ultrafine Mongolian cashmere. This sweater felt similar to the Mongolian Cashmere Crewneck, except with flimsier ribbing, less stretch recovery, and more fuzz. It’s also twice the price.
The Cashmere Roundneck Sweater has a slim, flattering cut and a stylish split hem. But it pilled immediately, and we found a couple of loose threads.
Men’s
The Italic Mateo Cashmere Crewneck Sweater is remarkably soft. Unfortunately, it’s also structureless and borderline mushy, and ours arrived with a few sections already pilling.
The J.Crew Men’s Cashmere Crewneck Sweater was nothing but cut corners, with its weak seamwork and an overly soft, almost greasy feel.
The William Lockie Oxton Cashmere Sweater, made by one of the last remaining Scottish cashmere mills, is intended to soften with wear and last a lifetime. The quality felt excellent, but its traditional crewneck style didn’t seem special enough to justify the over-$400 price tag.